Leopard Gecko Housing
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Leopard geckos require both a warm side and cool side in their enclosure, creating a temperature gradient, this is due to the fact that they thermoregulate in order to find the optimum body temperature. This is where the gecko will move about to find the optimum temperature where they are comfortable. As geckos are cold-blooded they gain their heat from the air, rather than generating their own body temperature. For daytime, the temperatures should be about 28-31◦C (83-88◦F) at the warm end and 20-21◦C (about 70◦F) on the opposite side of the enclosure. And for the night time, a drop of about 5-10◦C from the daytime temperature is required. So at the warm end, 22-26◦C (72-79◦F). In the summer months, the daytime heat should last approximately 12 hours a day, and in the winter months, approximately 9-10 hours a day (which also encourages breeding (see the breeding section for more information).
These are generally the temperatures needed on the substrate rather than the air. The main heat source should be a heat mat, placed at one end of the enclosure on the floor, (geckos acquire most of their heat through warming their bellies on the ground). It should cover about a third or just over, of the floor space, no more as this does not allow for a heat gradient and should also be left on 24 hours a day. It is recommended, as with all heat sources in your geckos enclosure, that a thermostat is used, to maintain required temperature properly, and to prevent the temperature getting too high, which may result in burns.
Another source of heat which may be used in addition to a heat mat, and also a source of lighting to the observer, is a red bulb. This is because reptiles cannot see red, if it is a dark enough shade, for example, although they may look red on the packet or when unlit, 'fireglow' and many other 'red' bulbs are not red, and produce a more orangey glow. The only way to be sure the red is dark enough is to purchase a pure red glass bulb, this is not coloured or painted like many other red bulbs. A 25 or 40 Watt bulb should be sufficient, depending on the size of the enclosure to heat, and whether the bulb is connected to a thermostat so that it is emitting the correct heat and doesn't get too hot. The bulb should be at least 6 inches out of the reach of the gecko to avoid burns, and a guard of wire mesh is also advisable. As this is a source of heat, take into consideration the recommended nighttime drop in temperatures, if using at night to observe your geckos it is easiest to use a smaller wattage bulb & thermostat, so that the temperature is still correct.
The topic of ultra-violet light often causes many debates. Many people say that because they are nocturnal creatures, which do not venture out in the daytime, therefore do not need ultra-violet light, which occurs naturally in the sun. However, vitamin D3, which is essential to balance the calcium intake process, occurs in the ultra-violet rays of the sun. Ultra-violet lights sold for reptile enclosures contain a level of vitamin D3 which is too generally high for leopard geckos. Vitamin D3 should be provided by use of a multivitamin, which should be dusted onto the food once or twice a week. Read more about Vitamin & Calcium Supplements
Hatchling and juvenile leopard geckos, (or until they are at least 5-6 inches long) should only be housed on kitchen roll. Using anything else such as sand or bark chips will more than likely result in impaction. Damp kitchen roll can be used in the humid hide. Read more information about this in the hatchling care section. Adult leopard geckos can be housed on sand, neither very coarse, or very fine sand, as both can cause problems. Some products encourage the gecko to obtain calcium from the sand in large quantities, which is not easily digestible, creating the possibility of impaction. Fine dust has also been known to cause eye infections due to the fine dust that comes off this type of substrate. Moss should be used in the humid hide, preferably treated, which can be obtained from most garden centres or reptile shops, and should be misted everyday to retain humidity. A mix of peat and vermiculite can be used for egg-laying geckos (read more about this in the breeding section).
Humid Hides: Leopard geckos require a humid hide in order to aid their shedding. Without adequate humidity, the gecko may not shed properly which can result in loss of toes and many other complications. A humid hide for an adult leopard gecko can simply be made out of a 2 litre ice cream tub, with a hole cut in the side or lid, big enough for the gecko to easily fit through. The hide box should be a quarter to half filled with damp moss which should be misted every day to every other day to retain humidity. A humid hide for a baby leopard gecko can be made out of a small plastic tub, such as a small butter or margarine tub. The best way to keep humidity is to line the bottom of the tub with a few layers of damp kitchen roll, which will need to be changed and dampened regularly.
Hides: Plenty of hides are essential for leopard geckos, especially if housing more than one together. They do not feel safe without many of secure places to hide, and this may result in problems such as aggression and stress, which can lead to many other problems, and bullying of other geckos. Hides can be as simple or as elaborate as you wish, but just remember the main aim - to make your gecko feel safe. It is preferable to keep the hide quite dark, and give enough space for the gecko to be comfortable and move around in, but not so vast that it feels lost. A good sized hide for an adult leopard gecko, as a guide, is a 2 litre ice cream tub. If housing more than one gecko in the same enclosure, provide at least 2-3 hides per gecko to minimise the possibility of bullying.
Water bowls: Water bowls should be easily accessible and should be placed on the cooler side of the enclosure. If the enclosure has more than one floor, adding a water bowl to each level is a good idea to ensure easy access. Water bowls should be cleaned and re-filled with fresh water at least every other day.
Plants: False plants made of plastic or silk make the enclosure look more natural rather than no plants, but live air plants can be used to give the maximum natural effect. However, these do require care.
The most commonly used enclosures for housing leopard geckos are:
Wooden vivariums - usually retains heat better than glass tanks, is easier to attach light fittings, ventilation etc.
Glass tanks/aquarium style tanks - a screen lid is necessary to allow for ventilation, and a secure place to attach light fittings.
It is essential to make sure there is plenty of ventilation in the enclosure. An absolute minimum size for housing one leopard gecko is at least - Length: 24 inches (2Feet) Width: 18 inches (1.5 feet) Height: 18 inches (1.5 feet), it is not essential to have a tall tank as leopard geckos are terrestrial (ground-dwelling).
Housing more than one gecko per enclosure,
Males should never be housed together - males will often fight to the death over territory and other females.
The size of the enclosure - this should provide enough room for the amount of geckos housed together to be comfortable, obviously the more geckos you house together, the more space you must provide
Bullying - The more geckos that are housed together, the bigger the chance of bullying. Fighting over territory and hides will often occur, provide at least two hides per gecko. Read more in the Bullying section.
Enclosures should be spot-checked everyday for faeces, which you gecko will usually select a corner for, uneaten or dead livefood, and shed skin which is uneaten.
Water bowls should be cleaned and fresh water provided at least every other day.
The entire enclosure should be completely cleaned once every 4 to 6 months with new substrate provided. Reptile disinfectants are available, avoid using bleach and other toxic chemicals.
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Please note that all information represents our own views and
experiences, and those of other experienced breeders and hobbyists who we have worked closely alongside. Winston's Web
therefore holds no responsibility. If in doubt, ask a qualified
herpetological veterinary surgeon.
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