Mexican Banded Gecko Housing
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Banded geckos require both a warm side and cool side in their enclosure, creating a temperature gradient, this is due to the fact that they thermoregulate in order to find the optimum body temperature. This is where the gecko will move about to find the optimum temperature where they are comfortable. As geckos are cold-blooded they gain their heat from the air, rather than generating their own body temperature. For daytime, the temperatures should be about
28-29◦C (83-85◦F) at the warm end and 23-25◦C (about 75-78◦F) on the opposite side of the enclosure. And for the night time, a drop of about 5-10◦C from the daytime temperature is required. So at the warm end, around 20-22◦C (68-72◦F). In the summer months, the daytime heat should last approximately 12 hours a day, and in the winter months, approximately 9-10 hours a day, which also encourages breeding (see the breeding section for more information).
These are generally the temperatures needed on the substrate rather than the air. The main heat source should be a heat mat, placed at one end of the enclosure on the floor, (geckos acquire most of their heat through warming their bellies on the ground). It should cover about a third or just over, of the floor space, no more as this does not allow for a heat gradient and should also be left on 24 hours a day. It is recommended, as with all heat sources in your geckos enclosure, that a thermostat is used, to maintain required temperature properly, and to prevent the temperature getting too high, which may result in burns.
Additional heating should not be required, however can be provided by means of a red bulb, also a source of lighting to the observer. This is because reptiles cannot see red, if it is a dark enough shade, for example, although they may look red on the packet or when unlit, 'fireglow' and many other 'red' bulbs are not red, and produce a more orangey glow. The only way to be sure the red is dark enough is to purchase a pure red glass bulb, this is not coloured or painted like many other red bulbs. A 25 or 40 Watt bulb should be sufficient, depending on the size of the enclosure to heat, and whether the bulb is connected to a thermostat so that it is emitting the correct heat and doesn't get too hot. The bulb should be at least 6 inches out of the reach of the gecko to avoid burns, and a guard of wire mesh is also advisable. As this is a source of heat, take into consideration the recommended night-time drop in temperatures, if using at night to observe your geckos it is easiest to use a smaller wattage bulb & thermostat, so that the temperature is still correct.
The topic of ultra-violet light often causes many debates. Many people say that because they are nocturnal creatures, which do not venture out in the daytime, therefore do not need ultra-violet light, which occurs naturally in the sun. However, vitamin D3, which is essential to balance the calcium intake process, occurs in the ultra-violet rays of the sun. Ultra-violet lights sold for reptile enclosures contain a level of vitamin D3 which is too generally high for
banded geckos. Vitamin D3 should be provided by use of a multivitamin, which should be dusted onto the food once or twice a week. Read more about Vitamin & Calcium Supplements
Substrate
Adult Banded geckos should be housed on a medium such as 'cocofibre' or 'ecoearth', of which 2 inches will suffice. Around a third of the enclosure floor should also be covered with moss which should be dampened every day. It is important to note that although misting the top of the substrate, under the surface may remain dry, but is essential to keep the bottom of the substrate damp, as that is where these geckos spend most of their time.
Hides: It is essential to provide plenty of places to hide, especially if housing more than one gecko together. Banded geckos spend most of their time hiding underneath the substrate or rocks etc. Hides can be provided by means of collections of small rocks, lengths of bark for example, although they may not always use them and like to construct their own hiding places.
Water bowls: Water bowls should be easily accessible and should be placed on the cooler side of the enclosure. If the enclosure has more than one floor, adding a water bowl to each level is a good idea to ensure easy access. Water bowls should be cleaned and re-filled with fresh water at least every other day.
Plants: False plants made of plastic or silk make the enclosure look more natural rather than no plants, but live air plants can be used to give the maximum natural effect. However, these do require care.
When considering housing, it is important to note that this species require high humidity, and therefore the enclosure should be made from materials which will not rot or warp. The most commonly used enclosures for housing banded geckos are:
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Wooden vivariums - usually retains heat better than glass tanks, is easier to attach light fittings, ventilation etc.
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Glass tanks/aquarium style tanks - a screen lid is necessary to allow for ventilation, and a secure place to attach light fittings.
It is essential to make sure there is plenty of ventilation in the enclosure. A good size for two adult banded geckos Length: 24 inches (2Feet), Width: 12 inches (1 foot), Height: 15 inches (1.25 feet), it is not essential to have a tall tank as banded geckos are terrestrial (ground-dwelling).
An absolute minimum size for housing one banded gecko is at least - Length: 24 inches (2Feet) Width: 18 inches (1.5 feet) Height: 18 inches (1.5 feet), it is not essential to have a tall tank as
banded geckos are terrestrial (ground-dwelling).
You should provide enough room for the amount of geckos housed together to be comfortable, obviously the more geckos you house together, the more space you must provide
Bullying - The more geckos that are housed together, the bigger the chance of bullying. Fighting over territory and hiding places will often occur, provide at least two places to hide per gecko. Read more in the Bullying section.
Enclosures should be spot-checked everyday for faeces, which you gecko will usually select a corner for, uneaten or dead livefood, and shed skin which is uneaten.
Water bowls should be cleaned and fresh water provided at least every other day
The entire enclosure should be completely cleaned at least once every 3 to 5 months with new substrate provided. Reptile disinfectants are available, avoid using bleach and other toxic chemicals.
