Tarantula Housing Guide
Please select from the drop down menus below for either Arboreal or Terrestrial species. If you are unsure whether
a species is arboreal or terrestrial, see our quick reference guide HERE
When selecting an enclosure for these species of tarantula, there are several points that must be considered. The tank must be easy to mist regularly, have enough room to contain a decent sized water bowl, provide good ventilation and air flow, and preferably with clear sides so the keeper can enjoy observing their specimen.
This is an arboreal species (tree dwelling) and in their natural habitat, will build long tubes of silk high from the rainforest ground. A tall tank (about 24x20x20 inches) is therefore required for a fully grown adult. The tank should either be a plastic or glass vivarium; both have their advantages so trial and error as to which suits both the tarantula and owner is preferred.
Plastic Tanks: These, if purpose made, are usually an excellent choice for housing for your tarantula. They are usually very light-weight and have clear sides, making them very idea for keeping your tarantula. It is often a must have choice for tarantula keeps with many specimens as they are very inexpensive compared to the glass alternative. There are however, several drawbacks of using plastic containers. Firstly, they are quite poor at retaining heat, and therefore humidity. Another drawback is that plastic vivariums often discolour with age and will probably become misty over time and after several washes. Finally, they are very much easier to scratch than glass tanks.
Glass Tanks: Although they weigh a lot more than plastic tanks, they are usually seen as the better alternative, they retain heat very well, come in a wider range of sizes and styles than plastic tanks, are easy to clean. The major disadvantage of glass vivariums is the in ability to stack them, due to their weight.
One of the most debated topics in tarantula keeping is which substrate is best for keeping you tarantula on. Unfortunately, there is no easy answer for this and you will find every tarantula keeper will have their own reasons for using the substrate they do. Fortunately for arboreal species, substrate is less of an issue as the tarantula will spend most of its time off the ground.
Peat/Peat & Sphagnum Moss Mix: This usually an excellent substrate for most types of tarantula, but with one major disadvantage: water retention. This can be good for tarantulas who require a high humidity. Peat mixes are easily obtained from garden centres, but make sure the substrate you buy HAS NOT BEEN TREATED WITH PESTICIDE as this could kill your tarantula. We always opt for the more expensive, but more reassuring organic substrate. A major disadvantage of peat mixes, is that many people will argue it is more highly prone to mite infestations than other substrates and should therefore be checked regularly and thoroughly.
Topsoil/Potting Soil: Again, a very good substrate for use with any species of tarantula. Often the cheaper alternative for a substrate and has many advantages. Again it will retain water very well. As with using peat, you should ensure that any soil used is free from artificial additives such as pesticides.
All species have different requirements. A temperature of 24-28°C (75-82º F) is acceptable for most arboreal species. Heating can be provided by means of a heat mat under the enclosure, connected to a thermostat to retain the correct temperature, allowing the tarantula to settle in to the temperate gradient throughout the tank.
When deciding on decoration for this species, you should remember that they will spend most of their time off the ground. Provision should therefore be made for it to easily climb and make a nest some distance up the tank. Cork bark is usually the primary choice for tarantula keepers as it is not only pleasing to the eye, but is very light so add little weight to the set-up. It is also very resistant to fungi and mould making it ideal for tropical tarantulas. A length of bark should be secured against an inner wall, and bedded down in the substrate in the far corner of the enclosure. This gives the tarantula a large choice for where to build its nest in the enclosure. The addition of artificial plants can add an excellent 'natural' look to the enclosure. These should be hung down the sides of the tanks, but care should be taken to secure them tightly, so they do not fall down if the tarantula climbs on them. NEVER USE ROCKS IN THE ENCLOSURE. Arboreal tarantulas will spend their time above the ground, therefore one slip or mis-footing by the tarantula, and it could land on a rock and result in a ruptured abdomen.
When selecting an enclosure for these species of tarantula, there are a few points that must be considered. The enclosure should provide large floor space rather than height. It should however, be deep enough for a large amount of soil for burrowing species. To see how much soil is recommended for different terrestrial species click here. The tank should either be a plastic or glass vivarium; both have their advantages so trial and error as to which suits both the tarantula and owner is preferred. For an averaged sized adult tarantula, an acceptable sized enclosure is: 12 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 5-10inches height depending on how much depth is needed for substrate. Obviously larger enclosures are needed for larger species such as the Theroposa Blondi.
Plastic Tanks: These, if purpose made, are usually an excellent choice for housing for your tarantula. They are usually very light-weight and have clear sides, making them very idea for keeping your tarantula. It is often a must have choice for tarantula keeps with many specimens as they are very inexpensive compared to the glass alternative. There are however, several drawbacks of using plastic containers. Firstly, they are quite poor at retaining heat, and therefore humidity. Another drawback is that plastic vivariums often discolour with age and will probably become misty over time and after several washes. Finally, they are very much easier to scratch than glass tanks.
Glass Tanks: Although they weigh a lot more than plastic tanks, they are usually seen as the better alternative, they retain heat very well, come in a wider range of sizes and styles than plastic tanks, are easy to clean. The major disadvantage of glass vivariums is the in ability to stack them, due to their weight.
One of the most debated topics in tarantula keeping is which substrate is best for keeping you tarantula on. Unfortunately, there is no easy answer for this and you will find every tarantula keeper will have their own reasons for using the substrate they do. It is important to provide a burrowing species with enough depth of substrate, to see how much soil is recommended for different terrestrial species click here
Peat/Peat & Sphagnum Moss Mix: This usually an excellent substrate for most types of tarantula, but with one major disadvantage: water retention. This can be good for tarantulas who require a high humidity. Peat mixes are easily obtained from garden centres, but make sure the substrate you buy HAS NOT BEEN TREATED WITH PESTICIDE as this could kill your tarantula. We always opt for the more expensive, but more reassuring organic substrate. A major disadvantage of peat mixes, is that many people will argue it is more highly prone to mite infestations than other substrates and should therefore be checked regularly and thoroughly.
Topsoil/Potting Soil: Again, a very good substrate for use with any species of tarantula. Often the cheaper alternative for a substrate and has many advantages. Again it will retain water very well. As with using peat, you should ensure that any soil used is free from artificial additives such as pesticides.
All species have different requirements. A temperature of 24-28°C (75-82º F) is acceptable for most terrestrial species. Heating can be provided by means of a heat mat placed to one side of the enclosure, connected to a thermostat to retain the correct temperature. By placing the heat mat on the side of the enclosure, this allows a heat gradient, allowing the tarantula to settle in to the desired temperature. Placing the heat mat under the tank does not allow burrowing species to get away from the heat.
Terrestrial tarantulas will spend their time on the ground or in burrows, and decoration is not nesseccary, but creates a more 'natural' look. Artificial plants work best in a terrestrial set up. These should be hung down the sides of the tanks, but care should be taken to secure them tightly so they do not fall down if the tarantula climbs on them,or placed into the substrate. NEVER USE ROCKS IN THE ENCLOSURE, one slip or mis-footing by the tarantula, and it could land on a rock and result in a ruptured abdomen. Cork bark or plant-pots with the base removed, angled into the substrate serve as ready-made burrow entrances and hides which the tarantula can customise.
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Please note that all information represents our own views and
experiences, and those of other experienced breeders and hobbyists who we have worked closely alongside. Winston's Web
therefore holds no responsibility. If in doubt, ask a qualified
herpetological veterinary surgeon.
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